What we learned at the Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference

My brain is full in the best possible way.

A few weeks ago, I attended the Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference (CRJC) for the first time since 2019 and I knew that I’d be there to learn, connect, and ask questions. The best reason to attend is to integrate what we learn there into our jewelry practices and call ourselves to action about what we learn.

I want to share some of the takeaways.

Responsible Silver – the challenges.

For the first time ever, we were treated to a panel on responsible silver and what opportunities are out there.

Sourcing silver responsibly is more challenging than gold – why? Because silver is less expensive, making responsible silver mining and recovery less profitable for corporations, but there is so much potential.

For instance, we learned that recycling photovoltaics (aka solar panels) could be a huge source of recycled silver. Currently, there are no mandates or regulations to recycle them…but there could be! With an entire generation of solar panels about to need replacement, there is a potential, ahem, goldmine in recycling solar panels for silver.

Deep sea mining. Absolutely not.

What a treat to hear from an engaging expert on the deep sea – Professor Emerita Lisa Levin of the Scripps Institution of Oceanography – and why companies want to mine the deep sea.

First of all, we learned that less than 25% of the sea floor has even been mapped, meaning that deep-sea mining could disturb ecosystems that we don’t even know about yet.

Two of the minerals that are most desirable for mining are nickel and cobalt thanks to EV car batteries. That said, the technology on these batteries is changing so rapidly, that many projections say that in 10 years we might not even make batteries in the same way, so mining the deep sea for cobalt and nickel could be folly.

All of this plus the deep sea has some delicate and unique eco systems that exist nowhere else on earth and disturbing them could destroy them. I know I’m not the only one who came away with a strong opinion that we should not mine the deep sea.

Marange, Zimbabwe.

The most emotional talk at this year’s conference. We cannot collectively solve the deepest and most heart-wrenching problems of the jewelry industry if we aren’t willing to acknowledge what happens when we think no one is looking.

That means hearing about human rights atrocities and violence. Content warning for sexual violence.

This is inextricably tied to our industry and we must talk about it if we are going to end it.

We screened a documentary about sex work and human trafficking around the Marange diamond region in Zimbabwe and learned how closely the diamond trade is associated with sex trafficking. Teenagers and girls are forced or tricked into sex trafficking in trade for promises that they can help smuggle diamonds.

And the industry organizations that make claims about responsibility and conflict-free do not monitor this tragedy AT ALL.

The Kimberley Process does not monitor this, nor do they consider this to be part of their definition of conflict, so they continue to certify diamonds from these mines.

We gathered after this talk and this documentary to talk, to process and to start to brainstorm ideas from all that we learned. The spark, the creativity, the ideas that grow from this aren’t nothing. By the end of the conference, we raised enough money that some of the women in this region will be able to start their own business and be financially independent.

How can you get involved?

One of the bigger takeaways from this year’s conference is the need to add more voices and to do more with all that we learned. The biggest question on our minds was “How can we help?” “How can we be of service?” These questions led us to fundraising, letter writing, and identifying all the ways that we can collectively speak up and take action.

I’ll turn these questions back to you – How can you add your involvement, your questions, your passion, and your willingness to learn?

Will you join us next year? Virtually or in-person, the knowledge and activism that stem from this conference are vital to making changes in our industry.

If you are considering attending next year (dates TBD), I want to know! And if you aren’t thinking of attending, what holds you back? Cost? Time? Not sure you’d “get it”? Speak your concerns and let’s figure out some solutions.

In the meantime, here are a few actions you can take

Send your comment to the Bureau of Land Management in the US about stopping gold mining in Inyo County, California. You don’t have to live in California (though it’s best if you live in the US), and you don’t even need to be in the jewelry industry to make your voice heard.

Learn more about new ways to define sustainability for the jewelry industry. Some of you might already know that I volunteer my time for the Jewelry Glossary Project, creating better, more modern definitions for all kinds of terms. Pop your questions or comments into our Instagram post – we’d love to hear your thoughts.

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